Maps -- Preface -- Escape -- Captured in poison land -- Into the wilderness -- Trouble -- In quest of food -- Feast -- Fish -- Land of plenty -- Approaching the front line -- Border to paradise -- Valley of life -- Crisis of goals -- Reverence in rainbow temple -- Into the mountain heart -- Renewal at Lake Trout Cabin -- Petrol haze -- Stowaway -- Birthday voyage -- Arctic companions -- Disaster -- Recovery -- Where eagles soar -- Photos: Riverside gathering -- Crossing -- Flood weary along the Okpilak -- Bearded one -- To the Jago -- Rescue -- Arctic transformations -- Inupiat: Native whalers of the far north -- Locals express concern of an uncertain future -- Steve porter -- Over the mountains -- Caribou people -- Gwich'in struggle -- Autumn raft quest -- Sharing the hunt -- Earth connection -- Wolf: Spirit of the wild -- Sandstorm -- Patches -- Rotting -- Awakening -- Grizzly -- At stake --Change -- Acknowledgements -- About the author.